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Education

Weed Identification

By Education

Now that it’s heating up and we’ve had a lot of rain, our gardens – and weeds! – are flourishing. Learn how to identify common weeds and how to ensure that they are organically managed for maximum production in your garden!

The Garden in June

By A Year in the Garden, Education

by Senior Education Specialist Judy Elliott

June, a month in which temperatures range between the mid-80s during the day to mid-50s at night, is a prime month for growing most garden veggies, flowers, and herbs. Rain is usually low to non-existent, with humidity also low. It basically is beginning to feel ‘hot and dry,’ and early spring-planted crops, such as salad greens, are approaching the limits of their preferred growing conditions.

You can extend their lifetime by picking outer leaves for your meals, a process that stimulates the growth of new, inner leaves. After a time, however, they develop a bitter taste, signaling that their ‘edible’ journey is ending. In the case of spinach, which matures in less than 40 days, the shape of its leaves changes from broad and rounded to one that resembles an ‘arrowhead’. Shortly after those ‘weird’ leaves begin to grow, the plant sends up a stalk that soon opens into flowers and then seed-heads as pollination occurs. You will notice the same process with lettuce.

It’s helpful to know that although our veggies provide copious quantities of nutritious meals, their true purpose in life is really to produce seeds for a new generation. Respect their life cycle and continue to provide the conditions that allow your June garden to flourish.

F |Feed the soil, yourself, and your community 

  • For a garden to flourish, continue to attend to the soil community. Make sure you have distinct ‘walkways’ within your plot to minimize soil compaction
  • Consider planting cover crops such as buckwheat that can enrich growing conditions for roots and, additionally, feed soil micro-organisms

L| Learn new gardening techniques

  • In June, all crops should be mulched, both cool and warm season. Use straw, any remaining fall leaves, even weeds that have not gone to seed. Mulched soil decreases the effects of erosion that occurs from strong winds and overhead watering, moderates soil temperatures, and, additionally, can lead to fewer problems from diseases later in the season.
  • Try planting small amounts of romaine lettuce (more heat tolerant than most other varieties), near bush beans. The beans provide needed shade for the ‘greens’ and, additionally provide a source of nitrogen for their neighbors.

O | Opportunities abound

  • Surround yourself with flowers and herbs that nourish soil, provide homes for beneficial insects, and repel pests. Buckwheat, planted between rows of crop, is used as a ‘cover crop’ to enrich soil. Cut it down prior to flowering, leaving its foliage & stems on the soil surface as a mulch & roots in the soil to feed the microorganisms.
  • Asters, zinnias, marigolds, chamomile & dill have flowers that provide nectar & pollen for beneficial insects that then lay their eggs on the plants. The larvae are fierce predators of pests
  • Garlic and onions have strong oils in their leaves that help to repel pest insects

U | Understand connections between basic organic gardening practices and thriving crops

  • Take a ‘preventative’ instead of a ‘reactive, crisis’ approach. Healthy soils really do provide the foundation for a bounteous harvest. There is no magic bullet that substitutes for deeply–rooted crops, properly spaced, watered at the base of the plants, and mulched to cover bare soil. Begin to envision your plot as a balanced, diverse micro-community

R | Practice season-wide renewal 

  • Replenish the soil environment by lightly spreading handfuls of compost (‘top–dressing’) around all crops on a monthly basis. Carefully use a hand trowel or garden hoe to scratch it into the soil (pulling back mulch if necessary). 
  • Replant early beans with a second crop, plant another summer squash seed by the end of the month
  • Remove early spring crops that are no longer actively producing 
  • Pinch back basil to delay flowering

I | Imagine the possibilities

  • Investigate the wealth of knowledge in your community gardens, neighborhood, or DUG’s ‘Mighty Network’ gardening platform
  • Investigate the life cycles of garden insects by ‘turning over a leaf’ and noticing the variety of eggs and larvae that call the shady surface ‘home’.
  • Feel the difference between soil that is covered by mulch and areas that are exposed to constant overhead watering and the effects of wind and erosion. Mulched crops are healthier.

S | Simplify your gardening season

  • Grow what you like to eat, can preserve or share with others. Don’t try to mimic the variety of crops shown in seed catalogs. Be realistic with your efforts, fine-tuning your expectations with the amount of time you can devote to nurturing the space on a regular basis
  • Cultivate garden ‘buddies’ who can help with seasonal tasks and/or jointly grow sprawling crops such as cucumbers or winter squash

H | Handle challenges with humility

  • Resolve to treat every step in the growing process as a learning opportunity. The best gardeners ask questions, recruit help from others and celebrate their journey as a life-long experience of giving back more than they take

Garden Tip

Create Opportunities to Linger!

Colorful flowers not only provide gathering places for beneficial insects but also stimulate our senses with visual and olfactory messages that encourage us to ‘stay awhile’. As we spend more time in our plots, we begin to notice early signs of insect damage or disease and can more easily attend to management strategies.  Consider using small tree stumps, straw bales, or even old folding chairs in your plot to custom design your ‘home away from home.’

Plotting Your Garden Masterclass

By Education

Learn how to plan out a perfect garden plot with considerations to layout, plant selection, ease of harvest and more! Our 40-minute on-demand comprehensive workshop with Senior Education Specialist ‘Jungle Judy’ Elliott will set you up for a successful garden!

Purchase Now

Creating a Paradise for Pollinators

By Education

Bees, butterflies, moths, hummingbirds, wasps, beetles, flies, and even bats are some of our most important pollinators. As they visit different plant species, collecting nectar and pollen to provide nutrition for their offspring, they provide important services to both plants and humans.

Flowering plants complete their life cycle, producing seeds and fruits with the help of these important visitors. To encourage their feeling at ‘home’, we can create a habitat to support them, offering their preferred food, water, shelter and space.

Some important things to consider include:

Creating season-wide food sources targeted to your pollinators

Provide nutrition throughout the season by planting flowers that bloom from early spring through fall. Consider perennial and annual flowers with different colors, shapes and sizes, including ones with tubular or bell shapes, in addition to flat surfaces to attract the widest variety of pollinators. Local plants (the natives), match the needs of nearby pollinators. Many of the double hybrid flowers have pollen, nectar, and even scent bred out of them and are not as attractive to local pollinators.

Plant in clumps, rather than individual plants to make it easier for pollinators to find their food source. Planting several varieties of milkweed will provide treasured habitat and food source for the endangered Monarch butterfly. Many commercial agriculture operations use genetically engineered crops, virtually eliminating large stands of milkweed that were previously available for these beautiful butterflies. Simple strategies like planting parsley and allowing it to flower will provide habitat for the Black Swallowtail butterfly. Consider utilizing trees, native ornamental grasses, and groundcovers which all offer nesting, resting and shade benefits for a pollinator habitat.

Eliminate the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides

The over usage of chemicals has contributed to the decline of pollinators, with systemic insecticides that are absorbed within plant tissue being most dangerous. The number one threat to pollinators is ‘neonicotinoid’ or ‘neonic’ pesticides. Not only are they most toxic to bees, butterflies, and other insects, but they’re systemic. When applied, these poisons make their way throughout the entire plant, including the pollen and nectar.  Provide a safe haven in your habitat by practicing ‘regenerative gardening,’ using the basic principles of organic gardening and sustainability. 

Instead of chemical fertilizers that can pollute our water supply, use compost to provide a season-wide supply of major and minor nutrients. Compost-enriched soils promote deeply rooted plants that use water more efficiently, feed soil microorganisms, and ultimately lead to healthy soil, healthy food (and pollinators) and healthy people.

Cover the soil with mulches and cover crops

Use straw, alfalfa, and cover crops such as buckwheat or crimson clover to provide a blanket to cover and protect the soil. As cover crops begin to flower, they are highly attractive to pollinators for nectar and pollen and, additionally, provide areas for shelter. Diverse heights and seasonal plantings of cover crops offer appropriate homes for beneficial insects.

Create nesting sites

A garden that is ‘overly neat’ is not as attractive to pollinators as one that respects the nesting and shelter needs of its visitors. 

Pollinators such as ‘ground bees’ need access to the soil surface as they excavate nest tunnels in sunny patches of bare ground. Grassy patches provide nesting for bumblebees and other insects to overwinter. Many native bees use abandoned beetle tunnels in logs, stumps, and branches and even chew out the centers of dead raspberry canes to establish nests.

Provide water sources

Shallow birdbaths filled with small pebbles or rocks help to provide ‘landing spaces’ for small bees to gain a needed source of water.

Be sure to empty and refill these frequently to prevent stagnant water, which attracts mosquitos.

Plant suggestions

Early season:

  • Trees: Fruit trees such as apple pear, peach, plum
  • Shrubs: Serviceberry, Sulphur flower
  • Perennial flowers: Penstemons, yarrow, blue flax, wallflower

Mid-season:

  • Trees: Black locust, linden, honeylocust
  • Shrubs: leadplant, chokecherry
  • Perennial flowers: Asters, Showy milkweed, blanket flower, salvias, harebells, coneflowers
  • Annual flowers & herbs: marigolds, zinnias, bachelor buttons, dill, cilantro

Late season:

  • Shrubs: Rabbitbrush
  • Perennial flowers: Rocky mountain bee -plant, Blue giant hyssop, goldenrod, plains coreopsis
  • Annual flowers: All sunflowers

Taking small steps to diversify your plantings, decrease or eliminate the usage of pesticides and chemical fertilizers and create a habitat oasis that welcomes our pollinator friends is an earth-friendly strategy that connects us to the broader efforts to step lightly upon the land and recognize our part in the interconnected matrix of pollinators, food, and sustainable landscapes.

The Garden in May

By A Year in the Garden, Education

by Senior Education Specialist Judy Elliott

May, one of our main planting months, has our temperatures all over the place, ranging from 77 – almost 90 degrees daytime to the mid 50 degrees at night.  Thanks to the ample March snowfall & precipitation in mid-April, plants of all types, including copious quantities of weeds are flourishing. 

Let’s think on the positive side. Their leaves, using the process of photosynthesis, capture atmospheric carbon dioxide (yes that same gas that contributes to climate warming), storing it in the roots which then release nutrients to feed the diverse community of soil microorganisms. So weeds can actually be thought of as providers of ‘free food’. We just need to manage them before they produce seeds or remove their underground creeping stems or long ‘taproots’ (like found in dandelions). As we get ready for another gardening season, let’s look more closely at what the month may have in store for us.

Do remember to focus on ‘prevention’ strategies.

P |Prepare for seasonal weather challenges

  • Hail always occurs! To prepare for that, don’t transplant all seedlings at one time, succession plant short maturing crops such as salad greens & peas, give crops time to grow new leaves, remove damaged outer leaves
  • Other hail strategies: Erect windbreaks of fallen branches near crops to break the force of pounding wind, hail & rain. Have spun polyester row-covers, such as ‘reemay’ on hand or utilize coverings similar to ‘micromesh’ for protection
  • Denver weather often ‘springs into summer’, rapidly heating.

R| Be Realistic about your layout and plantings

  • Set – up your plot in sections, planting small quantities of cool-season crops such as peas, salad greens, radish, beets & green onions. 
  • Set up a system of ‘internal pathways’ (designated areas that welcome feet) to lessen soil compaction. 
  • Use the information on the backs of seed packets to inform you about how deep or far apart to plant seeds.  Crowded seedlings lead to conditions that promote disease & insect infestation
  • Don’t plant more than you can eat or share.  One tomato plant can yield up to 40 lbs. of fruit

E | Evaluate past successes and challenges

  • ‘Harden off’ all transplants for a week to successfully acclimate them to outdoor growing conditions, including strong wind and sunlight.
  • Challenge yourself to water all plants at soil level, avoiding overhead watering
  • Mulch early-season transplants, such as broccoli, cabbage & cauliflower soon after planting them. Wait for cool-season seeds (salad greens, green onions, beets, carrots) to germinate and then mulch with straw. Mulch warm-season crops such as tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants several weeks after planting them

V | Visit your garden often to notice changes 

  • A well – designed garden encourages us to ‘slow down’ and appreciate the interconnected community of soil, plants, and critters
  • Harvest produce on a regular basis.  Carefully pluck individual outer leaves of leaf lettuce to promote further growth. Check peas daily to extend their period of production.  When plants are no longer productive, remove them and replant the space to a warm-season crop such as cucumbers
  • Encourage productivity by lightly cultivating the soil around all plants on a weekly or bi-weekly basis prior to watering.  This promotes deeply rooted crops that utilize water and nutrients more efficiently.

E | Encourage biodiversity 

  • Plant flowers (marigolds, zinnias, bachelor buttons, cosmos) and herbs (dill, cilantro, chamomile) to attract a variety of beneficial insects (ladybugs, green lacewings, bees & butterflies) that help keep pest insect populations to a manageable level
  • Plant different crops (not just a single one such as tomatoes) to create a balanced plant ‘community’ Rotate plant families (especially the potato, tomato, pepper & eggplant family) to prevent the build-up of soil diseases

N | Notice first emergence of pests 

  • Identify beneficial and pest insects in all of their life stages. ‘Garden Insects of North America: The Ultimate Guide to Backyard Bugs” by Colorado’s esteemed entomologist, Whitney Cranshaw, provides in-depth information
  • Learning a bit about insect growth patterns lets you utilize strategies to ’pick them off or keep them out’.

T | Tap into the wealth of knowledge in your fellow gardening community  

  • Community gardeners often have a lifetime of accrued gardening knowledge and wisdom to share. Don’t be afraid to ask for help. 
  • Challenge yourself to learn one new tip each season and, along the way, perhaps not repeat the same mistake of the prior year
  • Join DUG’s online gardening community to assess gardening tips throughout the season and involve yourself in classes that provide unique earth–based ideas.

Garden Tip

Keep them out!

Prevent damage from many pests that damage your crops by physically excluding them. Products such as:

‘Reemay’, or its equivalent, are lightweight row -covers, composted of spun polyester & can be placed directly over transplants or seeded rows to prevent insects such as aphid & cabbage butterflies from feasting on your crops.

If the crop requires pollination, such as peas, simply remove the covering. You can water directly through the fabric & it not only provides adequate sunlight transmission but also provides several degrees of frost protection.

The Garden in April

By A Year in the Garden, Education

by Senior Education Specialist Judy Elliott

April, like March, is a month of ‘wild weather’, alternating from moisture-laden snow, drying winds, and even rain/snow mixes (yes, Denver does experience rain at times) to a range of temperatures between 65 degrees in the daytime to 35 degrees nighttime.

If you think that sounds confusing for us, imagine the delicate dance that our trees, perennials and early-season veggies must navigate to survive. Perennials and trees (including fruit trees) have a ‘built-in’ time clock that responds to increasing daylight hours, sunlight intensity, and (for fruit trees), a number of hours below freezing for fruit buds to appear. Once those swelling buds open and leaves unfurl, it almost is a signal for more unsettled weather to descend.

One of the challenges in April appears to be our warming climate, and, concurrent increasing drought situation. It’s all too easy to be lulled into a false sense of complacency regarding our changing climate, especially if tree limbs are bowed down with spring snows. For the entire year, Denver receives between 9 – 11” of water but in the past few years, strong winds & rapidly warming temperatures in spring have made less of that available. With greenery emerging daily our thoughts turn to the process of ‘growing’. 

April is the month to ‘GROW.’

G |Grow to fit the season

Understand the variety of needs of cool-season seeds + transplants.

  • Note: Cool-season crops include peas, lettuce, spinach, radish, cilantro, parsley, chard, carrots, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, turnips) while warm-season seeds & transplants include squash, corn, beans, pumpkins, tomatoes, basil, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers.

Denver’s last spring frost can be as late as May 15. Don’t plant warm-season crops until nighttime temperatures are between 55 & 60 degrees.

  • For fast-growing cool-season seeds, such as salad greens, utilize ‘succession planting’, in which small quantities of seeds are planted every few weeks until mid-May, to extend the planting/harvesting window.

Join the DUG network at community.dug.org  to connect with other gardeners on their growing journeys! This platform is meant as a ‘give and take’ with our community offering their advice and posting challenges.

R| Respect the soil

Set up a system of ‘internal pathways’, with 3 ‘ wide planting areas separated by designated walkways (about 2’ wide) to prevent soil compaction within the growing areas.

  • Prior to planting, dig 1.5 – 2” of plant-based compost (not manure) into planting areas. Walkways don’t need to be amended. 

Plan for the inevitable ‘spring into summer’ of warm weather by having straw mulch available to place around cool-season crops.

O | Own and understand the ongoing commitment of gardening

A successful garden requires constant nurturing, not just watering.

  • Plant only what you can care for or use.

Consider the benefits of sharing garden care with another gardener.

W | Welcome the wonder + joy of growth 

Plant flowers and herbs such as zinnias, marigolds, chamomile, fennel + cilantro which produce a sense of riotous color, and also flowers that entice beneficial insects to visit.

  • Flowers have a calming effect on our senses and cause us to ‘pause’, bend down and ‘stay awhile’, noticing changes in veggie growth that may signal the need to handpick that ‘caterpillar’ before it munches the entire leaf. 

Appreciate not only the harvest but also the learning steps along the way.

Garden Tip

Know when it’s time to ‘dig your soil’.

Don’t rely upon daytime temperatures as a sign of when to begin your gardening work. For a more reliable measure that deals with soil moisture:

  • Use a hand trowel or regular shovel to dig down several inches and obtain a small quantity of soil
  • Make a tennis ball-sized mound with the soil
  • Drop the ‘soil ball’ from about a foot in height
  • If it stays together as a ‘ball’, it’s not time to dig your soil. Wait several days and try the test again
  • If it breaks apart (shatters), go ahead and ‘dig in’
  • Our soils are usually high in clay, warm slowly, and have very tiny soil particles. If you dig your garden soil too early (i.e., the soil still stays together as a ‘ball’) it may dry like an adobe brick and make it difficult for smaller seeds to germinate

Remember, patience really does pay off!

Water Conservation 101

By Education

In recognition of World Water Day, DUG connected with Diana Denwood of Aurora Water to talk about where Colorado water comes from and why it’s so precious, the difference between drought and aridification, and ways that you can conserve water.

The Garden in March

By A Year in the Garden, Education

by Senior Education Specialist Judy Elliot

March can be one of our (hopefully) snowiest months and also provides wide temperature variations, ranging from an average high of 50 – 58 to lows between 24 and 29 degrees. We’ve also had occasional days of 70 degrees, that throw us all off and exacerbate that ‘got to get growing’ fever that is so unique to gardeners!

Not only are days increasing in length, but sun intensity is noticeable. By March, turf is greening, early bulbs such as crocus, small iris, snowdrops and early daffodils are in bloom, early tulips may have emerged, buds on early blooming shrubs such as lilac and forsythia have enlarged, even fruit trees may show signs of bud swelling: and then the next snow descends or we are deluged with weeks of what ‘new arrivals’ may deem ‘abnormal night time temperatures. All of these changes signal the importance of paying attention to tasks that promote healthy soil for season – wide growth.

March is the month of DISCOVERY.

D |Dig into the wealth of information with DUG

Join the DUG network at community.dug.org  to connect with other gardeners on their growing journeys! This platform is meant as a ‘give and take’ with our community offering their advice and posting challenges.

While you’re there, check out our upcoming classes!

I | Investigate the ease of growing some of your transplants indoors under lights 

Using a simple fluorescent light fixture, seed starting mix, timer, ‘cell pack inserts’, bottom tray and humidity dome, you can easily start seeds for later transplanting to the garden

  • Early March: broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, onions
  • Early March: (Use a bottom ‘heat mat” for better germination) Sweet and hot peppers
  • Mid March: Tomatoes, eggplants

S| Simplify your seasonal work by focusing on the importance of soil health

  • Healthy soil leads to healthy crops which leads to healthy people
  • Activate home compost piles, or purchase landscape – based compost for veggie gardens

C | Create a garden plan to optimize garden usage in all seasons

  • Small quantities of cool-season seeds (our spring season for cool – loving crops such as peas and salad crops never seems long enough
  • Small amounts of warm season veggies (tomatoes, squash, peppers, beans) 
  • Replant spring crops in late summer for a fall crop  

O | Organize tools and garden supports for the upcoming season

  • Sharpen shovels and hoes
  • Remove rust with a file, oil wooden handles with linseed oil
  • Disinfect support structures such as tomato ‘cages’ with a solution of 10% bleach or one containing hydrogen peroxide

V | Visit your community garden plot to remove any dead annual crops from the prior year 

  • Set-up pathways within your plot to designate specific areas for ‘feet to be welcome’. Crops don’t appreciate the constant soil compaction of stepping near them to water or cultivate

E | Evaluate your successes & challenges from the prior year

  • Crop rotation for tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and potato family is essential
  • Consider your time commitment for gardening. It does require us to notice, pause, turn over leaves, (not just cursory watering)
  • Don’t grow what you don’t like to eat and more than you can use

R | Remember the importance and value of  ‘growing in community’

  • Your fellow gardeners are a wealth of knowledge, skills and wisdom
  • Everyone has a skill that touches gardening
  • Share your skill and ask for help when you need it

Easy Garden Tip

Garden Pathways

For a typical 10’ x 15’ garden plot, divide the plot into 6 separate growing areas

  • Each area is about 6’ 6” long x 2’ 6” wide
  • Internal pathways (for feet to walk, cultivate & care for plants) are 2’ wide
  • Bonus: Pathways don’t require compost and can be mulched with straw or burlap bags
  • This provides an easy way to ‘rotate’ crop families

February seed-sprouting ideas for kids

By Education

A Special Activity for Kids: Inside a Seed

‘Wear a Bean’

Materials needed:

  • Small plastic ‘ziploc’ sack, the size of a coin envelope (can use smallest size ‘ziploc’ sack if that is all that is available)
  • 2 sheets moistened paper towel, folded in half
  • 1 large lima bean
  • Piece of yarn or string

Process:

  • Place bean on paper towel, fold towel over bean & place in place sack, closing sack.
  • Punch a hole on either side of top of bag, insert yarn or string and tie around the child’s neck for the day, taking off the sack from around the neck each night and leaving flat on a table.
  • Each day, open the sack, remove bean, blow on it to introduce carbon dioxide and replace the ‘bean necklace’ around child’s neck. The warmth of the body stimulates germination.

Notice:

  • Bean increases in size after several days as water is drawn into the seed.
  • Seed coat softens.
  • Using your fingers, carefully scrape off the seed coat & separate the seed halves.
  • It’s fun to notice the first emergence of a baby ‘root’, stem and later, the first seedling leaves.

The Garden in February

By A Year in the Garden, Education

February weather in Denver varies from highs in the 40’s & 50’s to night-time temperatures in the high teens to upper 20’s. The month is variable; almost always windy, with increasing sun intensity interspersed with periods of snow.

I do remember several years ago, however, when nothing was ‘typical’ and periods of almost record high 70-degree temperatures led to swelling of buds on fruit trees, that then of course opened in the midst of the next blast of blessed snow. We learn to expect that the ‘atypical’ is ‘normal’ for Denver.

Mother nature is beginning to awake in the midst of this and bursting forth throughout the month with an array of early bulbs and corms, such as: dwarf iris (Iris reticulata), often the first to show its grass-like leaves in early February, sometimes covered with snow and miraculously blooming; species and the regular crocus; snowdrops; the ‘allium’ (ornamental onion family) and shorter varieties of daffodils, tulips and grape hyacinth. Early spring-blooming shrubs such as lilacs and forsythia will often show noticeable bud swell from the middle to the end of February.

It is so exciting to take a daily walk around the garden, bending down to notice emerging foliage of perennials among still-standing dead, protective stems. Daily changes abound, sometimes covered with a blanket of snow. BEGIN your yearly journey by:

B | Being open to the connection between healthy soil and healthy growth

  • Try and have your garden mimic the landscape of our tall grass prairies, covered with last year’s grass, providing the soil with a natural defense against storm and wind erosion.
  • Be vigilant in reapplying straw, leaf, alfalfa mulch to garden beds.

E | Encouraging birds and beneficial insects to visit your garden 

  • Leave ‘dead’ perennial stalks, such as ornamental grasses, coneflowers, yarrow and others standing as a source of food and habitat.
  • If possible, provide fresh, warm water for birds.
  • Leave a mulch of small twigs and branches on the soil surface to attract ground-nesting bees.

G | Gather with friends and community gardeners virtually to plan for educational events

  • It might be fun for different people to start different seeds indoors. Onions and leeks can be started in early to mid-February and by the end of the month, the first seeds of broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower can be sown.
  • In your virtual sessions, share your successes and challenges of the prior season. See them as ‘teachable moments’.
  • Involve children in the whole seed starting process to stimulate a life-long love for the earth and promote healthy eating.

I | Investigate the ‘greening of the garden’, noticing emerging garlic leaves, new growth at the base of mints, oregano and chives

  • If possible, water garlic, bulbs, asparagus, chives, strawberries on days where temperatures are over 45 degrees.

N | Nurture small steps you take to center yourself in the quiet of the garden 

  • Before the frenzy of ‘everything growing at once’, appreciate this time of treasuring the sun, the soil and the bounty it will produce.